As I’ve said before, it was only a matter of time before someone tried it with the tools as they are now. Now Austrian jeweller Boltenstern has collaborated with Cooksons to develop and release the first platinum and gold 3D printed jewellery collection, called Embrace.
The Bracelet design from the new 3D printed platinum “Embrace” collection.
More images from the collection after the break.
Jewellery Focus recently wrote an interesting editorial on how designer jewellery brands are tapping into the zeitgeist by finding weird and wonderful ways to manufacture their jewellery. While it’s hard to say anything that hasn’t already been said about the classic strategy of differentiating a brand by using exotic materials or manufacturing process, Mr. Northcote is absolutely right in pointing out the growing number of designer jewellery brands who are happily stepping into what was once the preserve of the contemporary art jeweller– innovative choices of material and method. CAD/CAM of course is one of these methods, but these innovators borrow techniques from many crafts and industries such as wood working, ceramics, stone cutting, and industrial metal tooling.
To add to the short list of makers included in the article (such as Bailey of Sheffield and Vanacci), here are a few of a growing list of premium and luxury brands which create jewellery using both innovative materials and innovative manufacturing processes:
Back in January, Bre Pettis (founder and former CEO of MakerBot) launched his own boutique 3D printed product brand called Bre & Co.
Their site and presentation is a fascinating study in ways to make 3D printed products appeal as a premium product to the current 25-35 year old middle income consumer market. It also shows what a website would look like when an artisan boutique is created to sell mostly or fully 3D printed retail products.
This marks an interesting evolution in the development of the CAD/CAM and 3D printing in the jewellery market. While we have talked about how CAD/CAM is portrayed to customers in the jewellery market before, it seems we are now seeing several distinctly different business strategies evolve which use 3D printing as a key component not only for manufacturing, but also for retail presentation. Each of these strategies shows how CAD/CAM is used and presented in a different target market.
For this month’s Something Beautiful in Jewellery, I present a jeweller and fashion accessory designer Kali Ratcliffe, and her new brand ELIXIR.
Embossed leather hat, made with Rhino and a CNC milled mould
Kali is a graduate of the Royal College of Art who has studied under several jewellery and silversmithing masters before collaborating with a few London-based fashion labels. What makes her work so interesting is the diversity of approaches she’s willing to take to make the piece she wants, combining resourceful application of Rhino and Zbrush with laser engraving and control over metal and leather to make quite diverse (yet cohesive) forms.
More examples of her work after the break. Continue reading
It’s not easy to find an example of generative jewellery design which has successfully cracked the fashion market. But for this month’s edition of Something Beautiful in Jewellery, we found one. Today, I bring you the work of one John Robertson and his company VerticesEdge.
The Curvaceous collection from VerticesEdge
For this month’s Something Beautiful in Jewellery, I present the bold and elegant work of Primal Crafts.
Primal Crafts is the creation of Danish designer and one-man-show Kristoffer Rønn-Andersen from Copenhagen. With a taste for Nordic tribal tattoos and ancient weaponry, and a flair for Scandinavian modernist design, he has been producing some quite remarkable sculptural forms as 3D printed jewellery through Kristoffer’s store on i.materialise.
More after the break.
It seems even with old-fashioned fine jewellery techniques, innovation is still possible.
With their new Merveilles collection, Swiss jeweller Boghossian has unveiled an entirely new diamond setting technique they call merveilles setting. Within this setting, the surrounding stones play as much a part in holding the diamonds in position as the metal itself.
See for yourself: